Authentic Italian food

Andrea Riva has always been something of a darling of the media and his sophisticated little restaurant exerts a powerful pull, strong enough to convince even fashionable folk to make the dangerous journey to the south bank of the Thames.

When they get there they find a rather conservative-looking restaurant, with a narrow dining room decorated in dull greens and faded parchment, and chairs that have clearly seen service in church.

As far as the cuisine goes, Riva provides the genuine article, so most customers are either delighted or disappointed, depending on how well they know their Italian food.

The menu changes regularly with the seasons.

Starters are good.

The frittelle is a tempura-like dish of deep-fried Mediterranean prawn, salt cod cakes, calamari, sage and basil, with a balsamic dip.

Serious Italian food fans, however, will find it hard to resist the sapori Mediterranei, which gets you grilled scallop and langoustines; baccalà mantecato and polenta; eel and lentils; mussels in tomato pesto; and grilled oysters.

Among the main courses, rombo al rucola is a splendid combination of tastes and textures - a fillet of brill with a rocket sauce and boiled potatoes.

Fegato and polenta unta - calf's liver served with garlic polenta and wild mushrooms - delivers a finely balanced blend of flavours.

The house wines are all priced at a very accessible level.

Of the whites, the pale-coloured Tocai is crisp, light and refreshing.

Riva
Church Road, London, SW13 9HR