London's oldest private hotel is currently in the throes of A Great British Food Festival, which continues to the end of this month. Favourite dishes such as potted shrimps, omelette Arnold Bennett, Cornish crab, Norfolk duck and steak-and-kidney pudding take a bow and the glory that is British pudding is celebrated with crumble and custard, that strawberry, cream and meringue mix-up called Eton Mess and the Scottish harvest festival response to oatmeal and cream, Cranachan.

According to the festival notes, 'The Goring Welsh Rarebit is the finest tribute to the Principality you'll find in the capital'. Were St George to visit, he would doubtless first of all clank into the bar, which looks out on to a grassy garden and is an eminently comfortable and convivial place to raise a glass. Tables in the dining room are well spaced.
A pianist gently tinkles.

  • The Goring Dining Room The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, SW1 (020-7396 9000). Mon-Sun (closed Sat lunch) £120 **

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