Joanna Taylor's Review In A Few: Brasserie 65a, Spitalfields

Going Out

Joanna Taylor's Review In A Few: Brasserie 65a, Spitalfields

No time for long-winded restaurant reviews? ES Magazine’s food and drink editor gets (almost) straight to the point
Joanna Taylor8 February 2024

From mutton curry to powdered Heinz Tomato Soup, comfort food can take countless forms, all depending on who’s enjoying it while sitting, strolling or leaning over the kitchen sink. Though there’s a reason so many of us find ourselves returning to the soothing embrace of French cooking in all its glossy, decadent glory time and again.

Distractingly indulgent, an onion soup done well might absorb the irritation of a mother-in-law probing about procreating; a duck a l’orange could fly you to a place where Sunak is banished to his own Premier Inn-style barge; and a slab of pâté en croûte may nearly distract from a man shouting, ‘What’s the blend on this, darling?’ over your head at Cadet (true story).

When I rock up to 65a on the edge of Spitalfields Market on a blustery Thursday lunchtime — the kind of day that is, in fact, colder than Suella Braverman’s heart — what I need is to be cloaked in a calorie-laden puffer jacket and hooked up to a Chablis IV drip. Apparently, though, I’m the only one, as the place is practically empty. And who knows why, because the menu, crafted by Maura Baxter, is as about as wholesome as French-inspired fare gets.

Interiors at 65a
CHARLIE MCKAY

Cosetted in a sea-blue banquette flooded in a wash of pale grey winter light, the velvety, predictable comfort of rich duck liver pâté topped with a thick, rustic slab of butter slips down as easily as it spreads on its accompanying wedge of sourdough toast, while firm, faintly breaded cod’s cheek goujons served with a squeeze of lime offer moist, refreshing respite from the richness, and prawns bathed in an absurd (see Adam Levine’s definition) puddle of garlic butter bring you right back again.

Prawns at 65a
CHARLIE MCKAY

To follow, it’s difficult to find fault with sliced fillet steak drenched in enlivening Café de Paris sauce (ta, cayenne, you cheeky devil) with slithers of skin-on chips alongside a plump half chicken and heaped spoonfulls of sizzling dauphinois. And for dessert... who am I kidding? I have to get back to my desk. But I’ll be returning for the flourless chocolate gateaux next time I have something to winge about. So, this time tomorrow?

The tempting flourless chocolate cake at 65a
Charlie McKay

65a Brushfield Street, E1 (65arestaurant.com)

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