Upstairs at the Ten Bells, bar review: good things come in short packages

David Ellis found one of his favourite drinks in London Upstairs at the Ten Bells – and is relieved that the rest of the menu backs it up
Cozy without being cutesy: Upstairs at the Ten Bells
David Ellis @dvh_ellis19 August 2015

What they say: Upstairs at the Ten Bells is trying something a little different and importing the New York trend for “short” cocktails – strong, small serves at reasonable prices. Here they come in small frosted glasses and are designed to be savoured. Drinks are built with multi-cultural influence, marrying the exotic with the classic.

What we say: The Ten Bells is all lager and shoulder slapping and proper pub downstairs, so to find the old-wood, leather sofa, candlelit charm of upstairs is something of a surprise, but one that works. It might not be bustling with spilt pints but it still buzzes with conversation, while the staff glide between tables, swapping drinks and filling water glasses. We’re unsure that the “shorty trend” is actually a thing in London yet, but whatever these are, they're almost all completely delicious. Classed four ways, drinks are either Crushed, Fresh, Strong (yes please) or Late. Some come with a fair few ingredients and none have names as a reference point, so ask for a recommendation.

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1/80

Order: The Vieux Carre (Rye, Cognac, Benedictine, Sweet Vermouth, Bitters) comes aged and rich and strong, and was one of the best drinks I've had in London at any price. This smacks of hyperbole, but really, this drink alone makes the bar worth visiting. The list, though, does well because of variety: the Ten Bells Upstairs knows everyone isn't sold on cognac-rye mixes. The bee pollen gin, blossom honey, cocchi americano, lemon and soda (told you there weren't any names...) is bright and crisp and just a little tart. We saw a lot of people choosing the scotch with apricot liquer, cinnamon and black cardamon, and unsurprisingly so, as it's served with a beer on the side. Tremendous value at £7, surprisingly fruity for a scotch pour.

Good for: Many drinks with a few friends. The room isn't crowded – they've commendably chosen to make it comfortable, rather than chasing covers – so you'll need to get in early to nab a table. That said, a proper pub is a surprisingly rare thing, so go downstairs and enjoy it, then come up to see the evening off.

By the way: The team behind the bar know their stuff. Ask for Jerome and he'll talk through exactly what to have, and explain why it works. He's also used his kitchen training to put together a few bites of something good on the side. Try the bresaola wirh fresh caponanta and red vein sorrel. It sounds a tad fussy, but isn't. If you're after a classic cocktail (and we did hear a couple good-naturedly lamenting the fact their shorties weren't longies), the list is brief but about spot on: the Sazerac (absinthe, rye, bitters, sugar) benefits from the smoothness of a top-shelf absinthe, and the Manhattan and Old-Fashioned both just about justify their £11 tag.

Find it: 84 Commercial Street, E1 6QG, tenbells.com

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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