Seymour's Parlour at the Zetter Townhouse: A beacon of decent drinks

'Wicked' Uncle Seymour's bar wins David Ellis over in the end, though not everything is perfect
The air of somewhere special: Seymour's Parlour at the Zetter Townhouse, Marylebone
David Ellis @dvh_ellis1 December 2017

What they say: This Georgian townhouse is the sister to the original Clerkenwell site. While that incarnation belongs to Zetter’s Great Aunt Wilhelmina, the Marylebone property is under the watchful eye of Wicked Uncle Seymour. It’s a 21 bedroom hotel with a dark, sumptuous cocktail lounge downstairs, where cocktails have been curated by titan mixologist Tony Conigliaro.

What we say: While the whole ‘Wicked Uncle Seymour’ thing is a little galling – how bad is this fictional character? Should he really have a bar named after him? – almost everything else here works, though the decor of one half of the bar reminded me of a pub that never made it out of the 70s, all miniatures and knick-knacks, although sadly no dart board. It's curious, because the rest of the hotel is wonderfully done and really rather beautiful. Still, there were no gruff old men in corners and the atmosphere was terrific, with the bar busy the entire night. The table service is extremely swift, and they serve a round of water with every round. Always a good sign. Cocktails come in all varieties, all with the clean mix of a well-made drink.

Good for: A date. The Zetter feels like its somewhere special and somewhere in demand. The cosy tables are mainly set out for couples and the low-lighting gives the illusion of intimacy, helped by the staff, who are attentive without being overbearing.

Order: The bar, bustling away in the corner, is a beacon of goodness, though not everything hit the mark – the Royale Royale (champagne with, er, champagne syrup) is tasty but pointless, though there are plenty of compensatory highlights. Winner of the list is the Two Pennie Trash (rye, powdered malts and treacle), but the Last Laugh (cognac, cider apple brandy, apple caramel and apple wood bitters) is close behind, while Le Sphinx (orange neroli honey, ambrette bitters and champagne) is a sweet take on a classic champagne cocktail. There are plenty of lighter, fruitier options, too.

By the way: The bar is popular enough that they take rounds of bookings, so you’re unlikely to hold onto your table all night.

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