Putting on the spritz: London's favourite fizz mixes

Vermouth perked up with prosecco and orange wine fizz — London is on sparkling form, says Samuel Fishwick
Fantastic fizz: Aqua Shard's spritz cocktails

London has an unshakeable spritz spirit. In good times and bad — but generally on the condition there’s at least a promise of sun — the capital’s bars pop and splash with the sound of fizz.

Spritz, that’s strictly speaking a wine-based cocktail but the boundaries are blurred, has broadened out beyond Aperol to be the drink of the summer, says Luca Missaglia, bar manager at Aqua Shard. He explains its appeal: “A spritz is great as it’s refreshing, easy to drink and lighter than other drinks.” There’s a practical benefit that makes a nod to virtue: “It can be enjoyed for longer because it has a lower alcohol content.” Missaglia has created a menu of cocktail sorbets, including an Aperol spritz, all served in coupe glasses with sparkling wine.

Over the past few years Aperol has become entrenched as the average slicker’s weapon of choice, usually in combination with prosecco and an orange wedge. It looks cheery and the colour is flattering.

As if to make the point, Hackney rooftop bar Netil 360 hosts an Italian-themed Aperol Spritz Social tomorrow in the spirit of the spirit, serving giant cicchetti spreads by renowned Peckham-based Italian dining hall Forza Win alongside the aperitif.

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Variety, though, is a boon — and London’s cocktail connoisseurs are never slow to stir from their laurels. Even Polpo, who were pioneers of the Aperol spritz, now serves Cynar fizz, a savoury grown up drink with artichoke liqueur and soda. For another refreshing take to head to Duck & Waffle in the Heron Tower on Bishopsgate for a Red Pepper Spritz, where head of spirit and cocktail development Rich Woods will whip up a mix of blanched red pepper vodka, Noilly Prat Dry vermouth, leftover red pepper stalk and seed cordial, red pepper vinegar and prosecco. Downstairs at SUSHISAMBA, Woods serves a Sake Spritz with sake, elderflower liqueur and plum and fig vinegar, served long and spritzed with soda. Over in Soho, Company Below serves Smoke Without Fire, a punchy spritz made with mezcal, aloe vera, lime, chipotle and ginger beer.

Indeed, the capital is awash with alt-spritzes; everyone is experimenting. The Cava Sangria at Brindisa Shoreditch is an alternative take on the classic Sangria, spritzing up a classic with delicious prosecco, homemade lemon syrup, peach liquor, and triple sec as a fruit garnish. Made of Dough in Peckham serves an unmissable Staibano Spritz, which beefs up regulation Aperol with Amalfi Smooth and San Pellegrino Arancia substituted for the soda water. Meanwhile, Brick House Bakery uses orange wine as the base for its spritz.

At Super Lyan in Hoxton, the Chattanooga Cooler is a tropical spritz, made with Super Lyan’s passionfruit pale ale, mango, pineapple and spices mixed with Jack Daniel’s for a long, fresh, holiday number. “The Chattanooga Cooler nods to the refreshing wonder a beer brings but has a big flavour that’s ideal in the heat,” says Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan. “Bubbles are key, but find a combination that’s not heavy or sweet, then fold in your favourite flavours.”

“London is a fast-moving city, where every day new concepts and ideas, but also people, are coming by the wagonload,” says Greg Almeida, head bartender at Scarfe’s Bar at Rosewood London. “It’s important to make sure our guests, old and new, do not get bored; but also to push our ideas forward and experiment.”

To this end, Rosewood’s spritzes are packed with spices and herbs — Almeida recommends a spritz made with Suze, a gentian-based bitter aperitif from France. At Scarfe’s, The Flying Boot is a neat twist on the spritz: Haig Club Whisky, Spanish spiced sauvignon blanc, crème de cassis, balsamic glaze and tonic water.

Sack, the sherry bar in Spitalfields, uses the dryness of fino sherry in the Fino Spritz, assembling a light take on the spritz. In Southwark, Bala Baya’s Gazozini cocktail packs in the flavour with a mix of grapefruit and thyme, watermelon and parsley, grape and ginger-flavoured Gazoz topped up with sparkling prosecco. Packing more of a punch, Oriole’s Everglade is a heady blend of Bulleit rye whisky, grapefruit citronette and absinthe.

Indian spritzes are all also the rage, typically featuring a playful infusion of spices. The Jaipur Fizz at Talli Joe in Soho is made with vodka, St Germain, rose and lime, topped with prosecco. Meanwhile, at Jamavar in Mayfair, the redoubtable Burman is a blend of Indian spiced gin Opihr and apple juice, shaken with lemon, blue lady flowers and champagne.

Even kombucha has had the fizz treatment. Brewed in Hackney but stocked around London, JARR Kombucha’s fermented tea is a delicious gin sidekick and could ease any hangovers.

As much as taste is important, it’s only half the package. Location is key. “You’ve got to remember, it’s perfect outdoors, and rooftop bars are wonderful,” says Chetiyawardana. “Rumpus Room at the Mondrian hotel does some amazing light combinations that are perfect overlooking the water of the Thames.” Hole up with your best tipple tips, and toast the Great British summer. It’s time for a spritz blitz.

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